Izabela Czartoryska – Fragments of Memoirs (Part 1)

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In June I went to Lubień. There I took the waters and baths. These waters were weak and helped me little, but entertainment, tranquility, and various diversions had a greater effect on my health.

At the end of July, I resolved to carry out a journey long planned, to Volhynia, Podolia, and Ukraine.

I stayed a few days in Lwów, then went to Brody to Wiśniowiec.Marshal Mniszecki received me kindly. I departed from there with the warmest feelings and arrived in Dubno.On the way I met Józef Szumlański, who at that time was in Russian service. Szumlański, our old and steadfast friend, seeing that General Bauer, who commanded in Dubno, intended to send an officer to meet me, requested that he himself, and no other, be sent. Szumlański led us straight to Dubno, to the palace of Mr. Chodkiewicz, which was splendidly, even tastefully arranged, and became a comfortable and pleasant lodging for us.Hardly had we alighted when General Bauer, with many officers, came to see us. But what was even more pleasing to my heart was that many local people had gathered there and all received me with friendship. At the head of these, my gratitude records the Karwicki family and Prince Stanisław Jabłonowski.After a short while, a table was brought in, magnificently adorned with porcelain and crystal, with tea, coffee, ices, etc.In the evening, invited to General Bauer’s, I found there a great number of people, the utmost hospitality, and a choice of the most polite attentions. One I will single out.Before supper, when asked if I wished for the Reymont music, I heard, as soon as I requested it, it began to play, and the only pieces they had were compositions of my Daughter, the Duchess of Württemberg.The next day I was invited to the parade. Several Reymonts standing there, with whom I spent part of the morning. I visited the shops, which at that time were richly stocked, especially with oriental goods.In the evening there was a ball at Mr. Witt’s, who at its close offered me a sword set with turquoise, which had been preserved in the treasury of Szczęsny Potocki, and which was especially precious because Władysław Jagiełło had used it to knight the Lithuanian Nobility. Along with it, a silver ring with an inscription on the very band: Władysław IV.

From Dubno we went to Mizocz, to the Karwicki family. The greatest hospitality. I was received kindly, in friendship, and with cheerfulness, and stayed there more than a week. I cannot remain silent here about my most tender gratitude. Whatever the most delicate friendship could create, all of it I experienced in this house. Along with that, it was a sweet dwelling, for it seemed as though every happiness was placed in that home. Husband, wife, and children loved one another dearly. The people were faithful and happy. The house most orderly, the service excellent. The place beautiful, the home lively, the neighbors devoted.Touched by all this, I wished to express my gratitude to the hosts. They had a room, where I stayed, suitable for this purpose; I decorated it with shawls and flowers, among which stood an altar, at which were entwined floral garlands of love and friendship. This role was taken by Emma Potocka, beautiful and fresh, in a white tunic with a golden band, representing Love; Zosia Matuszewiczówna, still in her childish years, represented Friendship. Behind them stood an elderly man, properly dressed, with a scythe in his hand, who seemed to be passing by, but as he scattered flowers, he added them to Love and Friendship. Among them, on a stone, were inscribed these words: May the ribbon of your life be entwined with Love and Friendship, and as time passes, may it scatter flowers upon it.The next day, in a large company, we left Mizocz for Międzyrzecz. Halfway, we had an excellent breakfast, and merriment among us: it rarely happened to me to see everyone and myself so joyful. After breakfast we all went to Międzyrzecz, to Mr. Stecki, who received us kindly. We spent the whole day there, and we were never lacking music, for from the moment of our arrival until late at night the orchestra played constantly, always with kettledrums and trumpets accompanying.From there, the next day, we went to Annopol, to Prince Stanisław Jabłonowski, who had long been my never-failing Friend in every circumstance. Here let him accept the words of gratitude, the memory of which will remain with my children and descendants. The most honorable way of thinking, rare delicacy, noble generosity—these are his natural qualities. Along with that, cheerful and witty, and from this one can judge how I was received by him. Hospitality and amusements filled every moment. Annopol, beautiful by its location and adorned in form, provided us with countless entertainments. Of balls, walks, and other such diversions I will not speak; I will only describe the last day of our stay there.Amid the most beautiful trees, on fresh turf, between suspended floral garlands, wreaths of roses, cornflowers, marigolds, and various poppies, an afternoon gathering assembled all. National songs were heard. Shortly after, from the thicket we saw a crowd of people emerging, who, as they approached, revealed themselves as peasants, and among them two weddings. Young and fresh couples, with smiles and happiness on their faces, came toward me and declared before all present that, in commemoration of my visit, the Prince had endowed these peasant girls and freed them forever, giving them land and farms. Moreover, in all the villages, he forgave a quarter’s rent. That day, that manner of reception, remain forever engraved in my heart. I cannot forget it. How could I repay it! With the tenderest and never-to-be-erased feeling.From Annopol we went to Tuczyn, to Voivode Walewski. There, the customs and way of life entirely old-Polish, had their own charms. The family very numerous, and in addition many neighbors, who all gathered in Tuczyn at that time, increased the cheerfulness. The house beautiful, that old Polish hospitality, without artifices, but flowing from a sincere heart, reigned there from morning to night. They ate and drank the whole day. Yet it seemed that whatever occurred always sprang from contentment and from some special tenderness. In the evening there was dancing. The host opened the ball. A handsome face, a fine figure, black mustache. A żupan of Turkish fabric, velvet kontusz, Persian belt, yellow boots, an extraordinary presence—that was Walewski, Voivode of Sieradz. He danced the Polish dance excellently, gracefully, and lightly.I, who never look indifferently upon the Polish dance, in Polish attire, with beautiful music, with the feelings of a Polish woman, gazed upon it.